North Korean ramen exports rise, but quality still lags

North Korean ramen exports to China are growing, adding to a food trade that already includes candy and beer. But Chinese shoppers say the instant noodles still fall short of South Korean and Chinese rivals on taste and quality.

A source in Ryanggang province told Daily NK on Thursday that North Korea is now sending more types of food into China. The shipments move through Hyesan customs, the main crossing point between Ryanggang province and China. Ryanggang province, in North Korea’s mountainous northeast, is one of the country’s most active hubs for cross-border trade with China.

“These days, candy, snacks, beer and even ramen are crossing into China through customs in Hyesan,” the source said. “In the past, only Chinese food came in. Now it’s two-way trade, with our own food going out to China too.”

The growing variety of North Korean food reaching China has stirred pride among some North Korean people, the source said. Some have remarked that the country has “finally developed.” Packaging on the exported items has also improved, giving products a more polished look than in the past.

Ramen flavors shipped through Hyesan customs include gochujang (Korean chili paste), kimchi, seafood, beef and beef rib, the source said. Other exported items include sesame and fruit-flavored candies, along with gangjeong, a traditional Korean snack made from glutinous rice.

“Our country had fallen behind other countries in development,” the source said. “It was hard to imagine we’d ever export candy and snacks abroad. But now we’re even exporting ramen, and a lot of people feel we’ve made progress compared to before.”

Despite the export gains, demand at the jangmadang, or informal markets, in Hyesan still favors Chinese goods over North Korean products, the source said. Chinese food retains a long-standing edge in both price and reputation among local shoppers.

Some shoppers buy North Korean items out of curiosity now that the packaging looks more appealing. But most still prefer Chinese goods for their taste and quality.

“The packaging looks nicer now, so people buy one out of curiosity,” the source said. “But in the end, most go back to Chinese products. A lot of people still think Chinese goods are better in taste and quality.”

For ramen specifically, the price gap between North Korean and Chinese brands is small. Personal taste, not cost, tends to determine what shoppers buy, the source said. At the jangmadang in Hyesan, Chinese ramen currently sells for 3 to 6 yuan per package, or roughly $0.44 to $0.89. North Korean ramen sells for 3 to 5 yuan, or roughly $0.44 to $0.74. North Korean ramen is slightly cheaper on average, but the difference is too small to drive demand on price alone.

North Korean ramen exports reach shops in China

Across the border, the flow of North Korean food into China’s Jilin province, which borders North Korea, is growing. That has led to the opening of new shops that sell only North Korean products, according to a source in China.

“Walk into these stores and you’ll see North Korean candy, snacks, alcohol and ramen on the shelves,” the source said. “But even here, a lot of people prefer South Korean ramen because they think it tastes better than Chinese ramen. North Korean ramen is mostly something people try once or twice out of curiosity. Not many keep coming back for it.”

North Korea’s food exports to China are expanding in variety. But the products have yet to gain a firm foothold in the Chinese market, the source in China said. North Korean goods draw attention for their novelty, but that interest has not translated into steady demand.

“North Korean seafood is popular because the prices are good and people see it as wild caught. But processed foods like ramen can’t compete with Chinese or South Korean brands,” the source said. “That makes it hard to win over customers. The packaging has improved, but there’s still a lot of talk that the taste and quality need work. It’ll take more time before North Korean food really finds its place in the market.”

Read in Korean

A Note to Readers